Building the Chicken Tractor, Random Notes

 In no particular order:

A ripped 2x2 (i.e., a 2x4 cut in half lengthwise) is going to be 1.75" x 1.5".   If the side vertical supports are not positioned so that the widths match (i.e., the 2x2 has to be turned so that it is aligned with the base and top frame) then attaching the diagonal braces may be difficult. If this is remembered only after the vertical supports are all in place, shims may be needed in places.

I did build another one for a second brood.  I incorporated several design modifications, some of which worked well.  One that I think will be a big improvement is diagonal bracing in the corners of the top. Shown below is the top laid on top of the tractor before the addition of the side and roof panels.

 

 

 

I added metal angle braces to the top corners of the first tractor, but they weren't very effective in fixing the movement.

Also somewhat visible in the picture above is the framework for the lowered nest boxes.  I used an additional horizontal bar to anchor the top of the vertical supports around the next boxes, but in retrospect, I could have just made the verticals longer to reach the top bar.  That certainly would have been easier. However, the added horizontal support provides an anchor point for the roofing panel material that needs to be added above the boxes...otherwise, it'd just be sharp metal.  It would probably not injure the chickens but might injure me when pulling the boxes out.

Because the nest boxes are lower, there is more of a gap at the top.  To prevent chickens from jumping in when I have the boxes closed off from access (as I will this time until they are about ready to start laying), I put in side and front curtains to limit the space to about what it would have been if the boxes had been as high as called for in the plans.

Here's a view from the front: I don't think it's as crooked as it looks in the picture; it's just due to the angle of the shot (though the perch is definitely crooked--by design).

I also made the tractor bidirectional by adding holes to the front wheel blocks for wheels if needed.  Instead of metal eye hooks, I just threaded the rope through them for pulling.  I expect to seldom switch the wheels, but it would be nice to have the ability if needed.  It's much easier to pull the tractor than push it.  Wheels at each end, though, probably would not work very well.  The five inch lawnmower wheels provide very little ground clearance.  On rough ground the back sill plate scrapes.  Trying to roll on four wheels wouldn't help that and would actually make it worse.

 

Those are the primary additional design changes, along with using galvanized or stainless hardware throughout (not for the screws; those are standard coated torx-head deck screws, but for the hinges and hasps).

 

Update:  This hasn't been as successful as hoped: See this post.