Fall Colors-Seedling Edition

I've noticed this before, but small hardwood seedlings seem to turn later than mature trees and they hold their leaves longer.  Sometimes they can be very colorful.

Usually the leaves are somewhat smaller than full-size, though sometimes not by much.  Other times, they're tiny.

More on the Need to Inspect Cranberries

I haven't canned cranberries so far this year, but I did make a batch from a two-pound bag for Thanksgiving.  Although the bag of berries I started with looked pretty good, sorting through them over the course of 15-20 minutes revealed a lot that failed quality control.

As noted, I spent a little less than half an hour going through the two-pound bag.  So doing a canner load of eight pounds takes a while--actually, the sorting is the biggest single task, as noted before.

I didn't weigh the rejects this year, but overall the number was actually pretty low--probably better than I have documented previously.  Still, the rejects were a pretty wretched lot and would've tainted the finished product.  A closer look is below.

Sorting is an essential task. When I have done it poorly, the sauce has been noticeably impacted.  So far, I don't think I've ever had a bad canning batch.  I have, however, had flops with small lots consumed immediately.  It's worth paying attention to.

Cubing Bread for Stuffing

My stuffing recipe is pretty conventional.  I use wheat bread rather than cornbread.  I just use one pound of my basic sourdough.  There probably are easier ways to make bread cubes, but I just cut up a stack of three (or maybe four) slices.  There are usually about eight slices in one pound.

More than a few slices gets hard to handle, but three cuts well.  I slice them both directions; the stack usually holds together through most of the process although it can start to fall apart as more cuts are made.

Then the cubes themselves need to be baked at 350 for at least 20 minutes to dry it for stuffing.

Cutting up a pound of bread takes about 20 minutes, so the whole process lasts an hour or less.

This is one of the Thanksgiving Day chores--although it can be made at any time, I usually only do stuffing once per year.

Thoughts on Latex/Vinyl/Nitrile Gloves

I use these gloves for a variety of purposes--cleaning, kitchen work, painting, spraying insecticide or herbicide, and other uses.  I've had a variety of issues with them.  Sometimes they're hard to get on, particularly with sweaty hands, and they can tear easily.  I had very bad luck with some nitrile gloves I got at a big box store: many tore when I tried to put them on.  It was enough to make me rule out nitrile gloves for years.  I then went mostly with vinyl, because (although they aren't rated for medical use) they function well and don't have the too-tight issues that seem to be ubiquitous with latex gloves.

It may be that I was just using cheap gloves.  The ones I had problems with didn't have their thickness on the box, but they were probably pretty thin.  Nitrile is available in a wide variety of thicknesses: Uline sells them anywhere from 2 mil. to 12 mil.  Home Depot has 8 mil gloves as well as thinner ones.  In my limited experience, 6 mil. nitrile gloves are not at all prone to tearing.

Vinyl gloves are also sometimes susceptible to tearing, but in my (again) limited experience, anything 5 mil. or greater is strong enough for the uses to which I put them.

In the picture below, 5 mil. vinyl is on the left; 6 mil. nitrile is on the right.

Another factor to consider that impacts ease of putting them on is whether they're powdered inside.  I've found that powdered gloves help a lot when hands are sweaty.  Getting a glove on somewhat wet/tacky hands is almost impossible otherwise; if I have to attempt it, I usually dunk my hand in water to get it thoroughly wet rather than just moist.  That helps.  With powdered gloves, however, it's no problem.  Some don't like powder residue on their hands, so avoid powdered gloves. It's not a problem for me.

More detail on the uses to which I put them:

When painting, I sometimes use them to avoid issues with splatter or the otherwise inevitable paint-on-hands syndrome I seem to suffer from whenever I take a roller or brush in hand.

For cleaning, it's a best practice to use some sort of barrier when using cleaning solutions.  Reusable (e.g., Playtex) gloves are an option, but disposable ones work well, too.  It's also advisable when spraying herbicides or pesticides.

When cooking, cleanup after some tasks is much easier if gloves are used, such as greasing baking dishes with lard or tallow.

 So in summary, go thicker than the minimum and, if needed, look for powdered varieties.

Skipping the Pre-Baking: Another Low-Carb Black Walnut Pie

Last year I tried a black walnut pie with a swaged almond flour crust that I pre-baked.  The results were okay, insofar as way-overdone almond flour can be okay, but it was apparent that an improvement was possible.

This year I skipped the pre-baking.  Below is the crust after forming and after adding the filling

There was enough butter in the crust to hold it together, so pre-baking doesn't even seem to be helpful in any way.  Below is the final result.  It looked and tasted better than last year's effort.  It's not low-calorie at all, but should be extremely low in carbs.

More on Splitting Wood

...And more on sweetgum.

As I just described, I got an electric wood splitter to help improve my productivity when splitting.  For the most part, it has worked okay.  So far, I have mostly used it with a bunch of sweetgum I got from my landscaping friend.

Yesterday, I had a piece that the electric splitter choked on.  I moved it over to the manual 10-ton and that choked, too.  After a few tries, this is what the log looked like:

As you can see, the wedges on the two splitters didn't make much headway.  The wood seemed to have a spiral grain that resisted splitting.  I hauled out one of my mauls to see what I could do.

After a couple of tries, I split off a piece.  However, I also did something that I have been aware of is a risk when splitting manually.  It's a best practice to bring the maul straight down onto the wood being split, so that if it misses or glances off, it is less likely to impact body parts.  Swinging in an arc could be bad.

Below is my left boot.  When splitting off the piece, on one swing the maul went to the ground, hitting the boot on the way.  I use steel- or composite-toe boots when splitting to provide some protection, although injury would still be possible.  The visible cut is deeper than it looks; it was taken after I used some adhesive to close the wound. I don't think I would've hit a toe if the composite hadn't been there, but I can't rule it out.  Cleaving off a toe with the maul would not be good.

Splitting Wood

I'm not an expert at this--at all.  However, expert or not, I needed to start splitting some wood fast when I moved last year (at the end of November, into a house with no central heat). I had two pieces of equipment when I moved in: a manually-operated 10-ton splitter like this one, and an 8-pound maul.  I also had the rack of oak logs that had been cut the year before.  Splitting with the maul was a mixed bag.  Some pieces readily split, but others only gave up after an extended battle.  Eventually, I started pre-splitting the larger pieces with the 10-ton splitter, then finishing them with the maul.  The 10-ton seldom split the wood completely; its range of motion was limited.

That worked relatively well, although it was slow. I have since gotten a second maul, as well. When it comes to using the wood to generate heat, problem #2 was that the winter was very wet, with  heavy rain December-March.  The wood was fairly wet; I wasn't covering it very well initially.  Problem #3 is that the chimney, visible in this post, is pretty short.  It doesn't necessarily draft that well.

However, manual wood splitting was viable, if slow. I learned that if there were a lot of branches coming off the piece I was splitting, it disrupted the grain and splitting was harder.  Also, some types of wood split more easily.  I have a friend in the landscaping business who soon supplemented my wood supply with a lot of mixed pieces, but he warned that some was sweetgum, which has a reputation for not splitting well.

Some sweetgum pieces split easily, but others were fibrous and stringy, requiring a lot of effort to separate.

 

 

This spring, I had to have an oak tree taken down; it was dying and right next to the garage, and also within falling distance of the power lines and house.  The big parts (large branches and main trunk) were left by the loggers.  Some of those are as much as three feet in diameter; they'll have to be chainsawed (either cut with the grain or across) before splitting in any fashion.

So I have plenty of wood on the property at the moment, but was interested in speeding the splitting process up a bit.  One option was (and still is) to rent a towed gas-powered splitter; they are readily available from independents and places like Home Depot.  A quick check showed that a 24-hour rental was about $100. Another option is / was buying a splitter.  In addition to gas splitters, there are electric ones, as well, ranging from 4-10 tons.  Gas-powered ones are typically in the 20-30 ton range.  So electric ones have their limits and are relatively weak compared to those that are gasoline-fueled.  There are YouTube videos of people splitting very large logs with 5-ton electric units, but the specifications for electric splitters typically say up to 10"-12" depending on motor and hydraulic ram size.

Cost is a factor.  Gas-powered ones are generally $1300+, while electric ones are roughly $250-$850; most are in the $200-$400 range.  Ones like the manually-operated splitter mentioned above generally cost around $120-$150 but are frequently on sale for $100 or so.

I decided to give an electric one a try and settled on a 7-ton model.

 

So far, it seems to be working okay.  it's definitely slow compared to a gas model (my one experience with those came a long time ago with a friend whose father used one to split a mountain of cottonwood in an hour).  However, the wheelbarrow load shown below took about 10 minutes, which isn't bad.

There are some small-diameter sawed pine pieces at the top right; those came from a dead pine branch that fell into the driveway.  The rest is mostly sweetgum with some hickory.

So far I haven't used it on anything bigger than the 10" recommended, but it is handling that size well.  I do have some wood to split that is larger.  Shown below is more sweetgum. Even though the sweetgum mostly showed the same characteristics described above, the wedge forces enough of a split to make it easy to separate the pieces.

As long as it doesn't break, it'll be very helpful.  It's substantially better than my previous approach.