Kerosene lighting

I've been aware of Aladdin lamps for a few years.  The online consensus-backed up by some YouTube videos is that they are very bright (see also this one).  They also are reported to put out a lot of heat.  I toyed with the idea of getting one for a while, but never pulled the trigger.  Some of them are very nice-looking, but they are hideously costly.  You can get one for about $135 [update 11/22: now $199; welcome to Inflationworld].  If you look around, nice used ones may show up on Craigslist, eBay, or retail antique dealers.  If you want a pedestal design and shade, the price is probably going to end up north of $200 [Update 11/22: now over $300].  So that deterred me.

The mantle is another factor: Aladdin has changed them recently because of concerns with thorium, which was in the old design.  The new mantles aren't as bright, but I'm willing to stipulate that they're still brighter than any non-pressurized alternative (though there are many variables with flat-wick lamps that impact their brightness).  Mantles are somewhat fragile, and from reading various comments from users, the mantles need to be replaced with some degree of regularity--though that would depend for the most part on the amount of use. The mantles represent an ongoing cost; though flat-wick lamps also need new wicks periodically, those are cheaper and they are consumed at a lower rate.

I was partly interested in a good light source for emergency use--the power here does not go out often, but it has been out for about 24 hours a couple of times while I've lived here due to ice.  I wasn't sold on the practicality of a kerosene lamp for that purpose.  I have flashlights and batteries, plus options to run low-wattage things (like strings of LED Christmas lights) for a time if the power is out.  When I began to plan for a kerosene heater as well, it made more sense to get something for lighting that could use the same fuel.

I ran across this duplex (double-wick) lamp offered by Lehman's one day, and decided to give it a try [Update 11/22: no longer available].  I'm willing to spend $50 on a speculative basis.  It arrived in July, which was not necessarily a good time to either 1) find kerosene or 2) use a lamp that puts out a lot of heat as it runs. So I didn't do much with it until fall, when its heat output would be an asset.

I didn't know what to expect.  I have some battery-powered LED candles, and figured that amount of light was about what I'd get out of a single-wick lamp.  I was surprised.  The duplex burner (two 1 1/16" wicks) puts out a lot of light.  It's not like an electrical light, but it's more than enough to read by if sitting close to the light source.  The picture makes it look like it's somewhat brighter than it actually is, but it's close.

I also got a lantern (the second picture above); they have some advantages over lamps.  They can be carried around more easily and are more weather-hardy.  I bought a #2 Champion from W.T. Kirkman, though other brands and cheaper versions can certainly be found.  I liked the galvanized finish.  This lantern has a 7/8" single wick.  It's also brighter than I thought it would be--my expectations were apparently too low before I started this--but it's noticeably dimmer than the duplex (as you might expect, with only 41% as much wick width as the latter).  The lantern also puts out less heat, although the Kirkman site helpfully estimates the heat output: 1400 BTU per hour (compared to about 10,000-23,000 BTU/hr for a kerosene heater...that suggests they have limited potential as mini kerosene heaters: one lantern, the Jupiter, was designed with a large font/tank to enable it to burn for a long time and heat greenhouses).  The light output is estimated at about 12-14 candlepower with a max of 20--getting from there to lumens seems to be somewhat of a messy calculation.  However, it's also bright enough for reading and general low-level illumination, though you wouldn't mistake it for an electric table lamp with a 60- (or even 20-) watt bulb.

You may be able to see in the picture that the walls are a bit darker with the lantern; the difference between the two is reasonably close to how they look when viewed live, but to my eyes, the brightness of the duplex lamp was about equivalent to that of the second picture, meaning things were dimmer still for the lantern.  Either would work fine for non-electric lighting.

What about fuel efficiency? I have not done a fuel consumption test.  Patrice Lewis, on her blog, has.  She used a lamp with a 3/4" wick for her test and found that it consumed about 0.61 ounces of kerosene per hour (2.5 cups used in 33 hours).  If the amount of fuel consumption is linear at a 1:1 ratio with wick width, that would mean the 7/8" wick lantern uses 0.71 ounces per hour and the duplex lamp uses 1.71 ounces per hour (if you ever had any doubts, yes, algebra has real-world uses).  If all of these assumptions and calculations are correct, the duplex lamp is a fuel hog, relatively speaking.  The Aladdin should be somewhat more fuel efficient than an equivalently-bright flat-wick lamp if it converts some of the heat to light through making the mantle glow.  However, I've seen some sources--like Jack's Country Store, which sells them--report that consumption is about 3 ounces per hour (if they use that much, they really would put out a lot of heat).

And what about fuel?  K-1 kerosene can be bought at big-box stores in the early winter months as heater fuel for around $9-$10 per gallon [Update 11/22: LOL--$14 to $18]--they advertise it as ultra-low in sulfur, and therefore low emission.  It can be bought at the pump at service stations for maybe half that amount.  W.T. Kirkman has a summary of fuels as well as a list of ones to avoid.  The only ones I have used so far are Florasense, which definitely has a kerosene-like smell when it burns in the lantern, not so much in the lamp, and Klean-Strip kerosene substitute (which still has a smell on first lighting in the lantern, but it soon dissipates).

One other thing about the duplex lamp: The chimney assembly comes off of the burner for lighting--you don't have to pull the chimney up by itself then get it back into the prongs after lighting.  I found that tip on a YouTube video that I can't locate at the moment.  It makes things a bit easier.

There are other options for emergency lighting--the aforementioned LED Christmas lights will do a decent job if you have a battery and inverter to run them (this isn't as hard to set up as you might expect; some car starters have small inverters and outlets, and you can also hook an inverter up to your car battery).  Or you can use LED lanterns (like the Streamlight) with a couple of sets of batteries at the ready.

Kerosene lamps and lanterns are in many ways antiquated and sub-optimal; they are relatively dangerous; they pollute as they burn; and they are relatively inefficient.  There are a number of international initiatives to transition rural areas in the developing world to solar LED lanterns.  However, for some uses, the inefficiencies of kerosene are bonuses.  Winter ice storms are one such situation.

Reviewed: 11/1/22

Cranberry Sauce

I made some sugar-free cranberry sauce today.  I've been doing it for a few years.  Originally, I didn't can it and only made it as needed, storing it in the refrigerator.  I also used aspartame as the sweetener, which worked in terms of sweetness, but changed the consistency.  At the end of the season, I'd buy bags of berries, put them in the freezer, then try to use them in ensuing months.

Whey Low works much better as a non-sugar sweetener.  And when I started canning it, my experience with cranberry sauce in the off season improved.  Warehouse clubs often get three-pound bags of berries, which is too much if you just want a side dish at Thanksgiving, but works out well if you're doing a canner load of sauce for use in the next year.

I use this recipe, adapted from the Ball Blue Book (BBB):

About 21 1/3 cups of cranberries
10 2/3 cups each of water and sugar (or Whey Low)

The berries have to be picked over carefully.  I always find a lot of bad ones.  They're often off-color and squishy; they may be translucent pink, or turning black.  If you don't get all (or most of them) out, the cranberry sauce will have an off-odor and flavor, somewhat reminiscent of PineSol.  Tonight I started off with nine pounds and culled out about 26 ounces, or 18%.  It took about an hour to do so.  I used the above amounts of water and sugar, but didn't measure out the berries.  From past experience, I know that nine pounds will net out to about 8-9 quarts.  Tonight I got about 8.5.  They can be canned in the boiling water bath canner.  I do them for 25 minutes.

 To make the sauce itself, I just boil the water and sugar, then add the berries.  They'll start to rupture immediately.  I stir them and eventually mash the few remaining stragglers against the side with the slotted spoon I use to stir.  Everything fits into a 16 qt. stock pot, though it is tight at first.  Until the berries break down, it will be nearly full.

You can see a couple of things in the picture.  One is that foaming becomes a problem as it continues to cook (and boil).  Another is that the berries (even once they burst) float at the top of the mixture, leaving a more syrupy consistency below.  I try to balance out what goes into each jar, but obviously miss the mark sometimes.  Still, it all works out and they're good.

The Whey Low does admittedly make this an expensive indulgence.  The three bags of berries cost about $14, and the amount of Whey Low (a little over four pounds) costs probably $30 or so (without any discounts, which are easy to get if you're willing to go on their e-mail list).  I could use sugar, which would cut the price dramatically. For preserves I use sugar; Whey Low would be prohibitive.  But for cranberry sauce, I figure it's worth it to lighten the load calorically.

No-Knead Bread

I've been baking my own bread for a little over six years now.  I usually bake about one two-pound loaf per week.  In all that time, I have kneaded a batch of bread dough just once--the first time I made it.

I claim no originality with the process or recipe.  All credit goes to Jim Lahey and Mark Bitten; the first video they made on it can be seen here:  No-Knead Bread

Numerous permutations of this recipe can be seen in videos produced by Breadtopia.

This is also similar to the "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes per Day" approach.

The nice thing about this process is that you don't need precision.  My own recipe has drifted over the years; what I currently use for the most common loaf I bake is this:

2 cups unbleached bread flour
1 3/4 cups whole wheat flour (of any kind)
1/2 tsp salt
1 3/4 - 2 cups water
1/4 cup sourdough starter

I bake it at 475 for 30 minutes, then 15 minutes at 450.  I don't use much salt... I slowly backed it off over a period of time and now I'm happy with the minimal amount I use.  When I bake for others, I bring the amount of salt back up because I know most people would find my bread to be pretty bland.

I started off baking in a Pyrex pot, but soon moved to a Romertopf because it makes nice traditional loaf-sized bread and is good for sandwiches.  Rather than lay the dough on a towel or the counter, I put it in a proofing basket to rise the second time (with a liner).

The inside of the loaf when baking the standard white/whole wheat flour mix looks like this (not the same loaf as above):

Regardless of flour blend, my process is: mix it all up in a bowl; let it rise under plastic for a number of hours; turn it out onto a floured counter top, dusting it with flour on top, patting it out a bit and folding it into a sort of oblong loaf shape; put it in the proofing basket for a few minutes; drop into the preheated Romertopf; bake; remove and let cool for about 24 hours before cutting (both to cool and to build a nice crust).  Then I start storing it in the refrigerator as I use it up.

Regarding rising times: those have drifted.  12 hours / 2 hours will work, but a wide range of times will work.  Most commonly I let the first rise go 9-10 hours and the second more like 30 minutes.  In the summer my house is pretty warm, so the dough rises a lot; in the winter, not so much.  A shorter second rise seems to lead to more rising in the oven.

I use a number of different flour combinations, adding up to a total of 3 3/4 - 4 cups:

All bread (white) flour
All whole wheat flour (white, red, white soft)*
As above with rye flour substituted for the whole wheat
As above with buckwheat flour substituted for whole wheat (only did this one; didn't like it much)

*When baking with 100% whole wheat, I add 1/2 cup of vital wheat gluten, for a total of about 4 -  4 1/4 cups flour & VWG.

The baking times are always the same.  As noted above, I preheat the Romertopf--for 20 minutes as the oven is warming up to avoid having the loaf stick; it almost always slides right out.  Above is my standard white / whole wheat mixture; below is the most recent loaf I've baked: 100% soft white wheat with VWG.

As you can see, the crumb structure is much more dense than with some white flour mixed in, but I'm very happy with the results. The individual slices are heavy. The loaf is shown sitting on my fairly cheap bread slicing guide. I think I prefer the white flour mixed in, but this is certainly viable.  The reason I have experimented with all whole wheat is that I have some unground wheat on hand.  Any baking I do with that will be either all whole wheat or I'll have to mix in store-bought white flour.  Red wheat has a definite bite to it, while white is more bland.  In general, hard wheat is more available than soft, but as you can see, soft will work okay.  I also use hard wheat flour in places where soft is more traditionally recommended, such as when making cakes. 

I haven't used commercial yeast much in the last several years; I have a sourdough starter I originally got from Cultures for Health that is still going strong. My sourdough approach pretty much follows the video on the Breadtopia site.

A few observations:  I don't mix my dough to be as wet as shown in the video.  The texture is obviously different with whole wheat flour in the mix, but even so, if the dough is too wet, it makes a mess in the proofing basket and is a mess to deal with when trying to pat it out on the counter.  Rye is pretty sticky, too.  Regardless of flour type, somewhat less water works fine.

As noted before, the recipe is incredibly forgiving of deviations in almost any of the ingredients or other parameters.  Too much water causes some problems, but the bread will still be usable.  Too little is probably okay.  Flour can vary a bit.  Rising times can vary.  Baking time can vary.  Too little would obviously be a problem, but I've left it in too long on a couple of occasions and it has been okay.  I certainly have had loaves that have disappointed, but they are always usable.

The bread is good.  I obviously bake it to my own tastes, but it beats almost anything I can buy.

I've spoiled myself at this point; I used to be happy with store brand white or whole wheat sandwich bread, but now those are almost inedible--soft, airy, salty, nasty.  What I bake is worlds better.

The amount of work involved is minimal, and it's pretty cheap.  Ten pounds of flour costs $6-$7, and I can get five two-pound loaves of premium bread from that much.  That much good bread in the store would probably cost... I don't know; I haven't shopped for it lately... probably at least $20. The long rising times can easily be built around my work schedule.  I either mix up the dough before leaving for work and bake when I get home or do so last thing at night so I can bake the next morning.


Grinding my own wheat flour would make it a bit fresher, and I have done that before.  I'm pretty satisfied buying pre-ground whole wheat, however.  I've experimented with a lot of different varieties and want to try growing my own. Speaking of which, it's just about time to plant it.

If you've never baked your own bread; give it a try.  It's worth it.

Eulogy for a Pear Tree (Deer, Take III)

Earlier, I mentioned that deer can be a problem, but that there were ways to limit or prevent the damage they do to trees that I have tried that work.  Although it has limitations as trees grow, a circle of welded wire or field fencing--or even chicken wire--seems to be effective.  After complaining to myself about the hassle and expense involved, I eventually decided to give it a try and
have adopted it as the method of choice for every young fruit tree I've planted...except for one.

That one is dead now.

Last spring, I got three pear trees.  I had been thinking about pears for a long time, but had shied away from them because of the plum curculio issues (which also plague apples and peaches, as previous posts had noted).  I didn't really want more high-maintenance trees. Eventually I decided to give them a try.  I have multiple apples and peaches already, so spraying three more trees with Surround won't be all that much extra work.

So I got three trees--two container, one bare root--and planted them.  I got them in the ground very late in the season for Georgia; it was early May.  I ran out of welded wire fencing after circling the two container pear trees, but the next time I was out where I had planted them, I took along a four-foot roll of chicken wire.  I dropped the roll next to the bare-root tree, but "didn't have time" that day to pound in the t-posts and fence it in.  Ditto the next time, and the next... eventually I stopped thinking about it, although every time I mowed, I had to move the chicken wire roll (still laying next to the pear tree) and I'd think, "I need to make time to do that."  In the meantime, I saw no indication whatsoever of deer damage, so was telling myself that maybe pear trees weren't an attractive target.

To some degree that may be true.  What caused the death of my young pear tree was a buck rubbing against it--as the picture shows.  He broke off the entire top of the tree and scraped off most of the bark.  You can see how he pushed it around by the hole worn in the ground at the base.

While it might be possible to salvage this by cutting it just above the graft, I'm going to start over.  I have a few months to decide if I want to add another pear tree or do something else.

More on Black Walnuts

I'm starting to process the black walnuts that have been falling.  Most of the nuts are on the ground now, with only a few left in the trees.

The first step is to get the hull off, which requires a bit of work the way I do it.  I mentioned earlier that corn shellers can be used to de-husk walnuts, but I'm not entirely sure whether that's intended to be when they are fresh--like in the picture at right--or when they've dried down.  You'll see various things online about hulling them; generally, people recommend it be done when the nuts are first collected.  If you wait until the husks dry around the nut, it's tough to remove them.

The texture of the husk is fairly meaty.  It's apparently edible, because you can buy pickled walnuts that include everything--shell, nut meat, and husk--in vinegar (the nuts are picked in an immature state for pickling).  I was interested in trying them until I found out they didn't shell the nuts... eating the whole thing isn't very appealing.

So I remove my husks and try to do so quickly.  The picture above was taken when I had just picked up the nuts.  They start to turn black almost immediately.  Black walnuts contain juglone, a somewhat herbicidal chemical that inhibits some other plants (but not all).  The nut falls to the ground; the husk deteriorates around the shell, and limits plant growth around where the nut will sprout and begin to grow.  So one has to be careful where the husks and washing water are dumped.

I use the hammer method, described very well in this video.  He's a lot faster at it than I am.  I pound away on the nuts inside a bag to try to catch the husks--they're messy and will stain anything they touch.  I use rubber gloves. The bag at left probably took me about 10-15 minutes to do.  Inevitably, you'll find some that have husk fly larvae in them (as shown in the picture below).  The first year I picked up my nuts, I was aghast when I discovered a few little worms in the box.  Don't worry about them.  They're pretty harmless.  They eat the husk material but don't penetrate the shell to get inside the nut itself.  I just work around them.

The husk flies may provide a somewhat beneficial service to the tree, by breaking the husks up a bit and making it easier for them to fall apart and decompose once they hit the ground. On my trees, the eggs laid by the adult flies pretty much reach a dead end, because I toss them in the trash. 

 

The adult husk fly itself is a pretty attractive bug.  I have seen a few of them on the trees, though not often; one spring, I even found one in the garage sitting on some nuts that I hadn't gotten around to hulling the fall before (they were well-dried down by then). 

As noted in another post, corn shellers can also remove the husks though I have never tried that method.

After the nuts are close to hull-less (hammering can't get all the material off), I put them in a bucket and wash them in water, similar to the process followed in the video above.  The final result is as shown.  I don't get them completely clean; I get them clean enough.  When cracking, the dried hull material will flake off the shell and make a bit of a mess, but the only alternative is to use a lot of water and/or a brush to scrub the hull tissue out of the grooves in the shell.  I'm not going to do that.

Once cleaned (or semi-cleaned), the nuts will keep well in the shell for a long time--over a year.  I still have some from last year I need to crack.  Ones I have done recently have been fine.

 

In the picture above you can see that some of the nuts are larger than the others; the big ones come from what I believe is probably a named cultivar tree.  The other tree might be native.  I get usable nut meat out of both.

 

Fairy Ring and Tree Cattle

There's nothing substantial to this post, but I noticed recently that I have a fairy ring in the yard.  This isn't a very good picture--it would be nicer if the grass was shorter, but the same rain that made the mushrooms bloom also made the grass take off.  Once mowed, the ring is much less apparent.

This is the first year I have noticed this ring, and it is relatively small--less than five feet across.  The mushrooms themselves are fairly large, and I have no idea what kind they are. I assume they will be back next year, in a somewhat larger circle.  We shall see.

This is near the blackberries growing near my garage that I referred to a couple of months ago.  Before the blackberry bushes, that spot had a big rose bush that eventually keeled over, then the rose bush rootstock grew up and bloomed for a few years.  As a nearby crepe myrtle has grown up, it has gotten too shaded, so the rootstock rose has been ailing, as well.  Finally, I pulled everything out.  When I yanked up some of the old canes, I saw some very curious little bugs.  They moved very fast but in herd fashion--like antelope or cattle.  I poked around on Google for a while and found that's exactly what they're called: tree cattle, aka bark lice.  I saw the nymph form.  Eventually, they ran away.

Before this starts to resemble a Jim's Journal strip (unless it's already too late), I should stop.

More on Beans

I made another pot of beans with the pressure cooker last night, as discussed previously, but after soaking the beans I discovered I didn't have any onions--which was a problem.  I have never made beans without fresh onion, but I decided to give dried minced onion a try.  I had some of that in the pantry.

Normally I put in two onions, but the amount in two onions varies.  It's probably usually about two to three cups of diced onion.  Usually, dried vegetables and herbs seem to rehydrate to about a 3:1 ratio; one teaspoon dried equals about one tablespoon fresh.  So I tossed in 3/4 cups of minced onion.  I also added more water.  Normally I put the water level right at the top of the beans (sometimes slightly more if cooking in a non-pressurized pot), but I added quite a bit more because I knew the dehydrated onion would absorb water, rather than increase the water level as fresh onions do when they cook down.

In the end, I put a bit too much extra water in.  Another alternative would've been to rehydrate them before adding to the pot, but that seems to be unnecessary.  The picture at right shows the pot after I had scooped out a generous portion for dinner.  The flavor was okay. A whole cup would have worked, too, but the results with 3/4 cup were fine. I wouldn't mind doing them this way again (and probably will; I have more minced onion that I haven't been using much of and I need to learn to use it for more than marinade). Minced onion keeps for a long time if properly packaged.

I could also substitute dehydrated / minced garlic, though I have no experience with it.  The only dry form I have used is powdered.  The bacon would be another problem.  It's an important component in the recipe and I'm not immediately aware of non-fresh or frozen alternatives.  I do know about canned bacon, but that's already cooked and might not work very well.  I may try it sometime just to see how it goes.  This time, by the way, I used thick-cut bacon, which was much easier to slice into small pieces than normal thin-cut bacon is.  I dropped it back down to four ounces, and that was fine (both in terms of flavoring and deterring foaming).

For the record:  It took 25 minutes after the cooking time ended for the pressure to drop in the cooker.  The guidelines for beans in the manual say the pressure should drop on its own rather than via venting.

Lastly, I ran across a site that has nutritional information for generally wholesome foods; pintos are on their list:  World's Healthiest Foods-Pinto Beans.