Saturday, June 27, 2020
Eastern Eyed Click Beetles
Until the last few years, I had never seen these things. Then they occasionally showed up, usually dead in standing water. A couple of summers ago, when I was having well issues, I had to run some water into stock tanks.
I wasn't living here then, and when I returned, I found a couple of strange and huge beetles floating on the surface.
This summer, I drew a bucket of water and the next morning found the same: another dead click beetle. But I had never seen a living specimen, until a couple of weeks ago, when one flew onto the grille of my truck when I was standing nearby. Since then I've seen more--maybe I'm just more attuned to them now.
I haven't seen them click--the above is still the only live one I have seen up close; the others have been flying--but they otherwise seem to be pretty benign insects (and may even be beneficial, according to Michael Raupp of the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension Service). They prey on larvae of other species, including those that burrow into decaying wood. With my firewood stacks, I definitely see signs of infestation, sometimes severe.
Help dealing with creatures like this would be welcome. Wood eating organisms may have their place, but are not a good fit for my oak firewood.
Saturday, June 20, 2020
Canning Dry Beans
I've posted before about cooking dry beans (primarily pinto, but my favorite is cranberry). Beans keep a long time when dry, but they eventually become difficult to cook; the solution that has worked best for me is pressure cooking.
Another alternative is to can them. Now that I'm using my pressure canner, that is an option. Canning beans offers no advantage over storing dry with the exception that they are ready to eat without further preparation. Canned beans certainly won't last longer than dry beans in terms of storage life (the latter are good for 30 years, if "dislike slightly" is good enough).
There are numerous sites that describe canning beans, but one thing is striking: most describe canning plain beans. The NCHFP does have a recipe for canning beans with tomato or molasses sauce that optionally includes adding a small amount of bacon or pork. As I've noted previously, when making a pot of beans for immediate use (or for freezing) I add onion, garlic, and bacon to the mix.
I decided to give my normal recipe a try. The amount of bacon per jar would be comparable to that suggested by the NCHFP site, although my precise recipe isn't listed--the one featuring the bacon includes tomato or molasses, which is not the flavor I was going for at all (I cut up a pound of bacon for the batch, which worked out to about one ounce per jar--somewhat more than the 3/4 inch cube in the NCHFP recipe).
The NCHFP site recommends an overnight or quick soak, followed by 30 minutes' worth of boiling before putting in the jars. The extra boiling might be justified if it helps the beans absorb more water so that they are fully hydrated. But that level of cooking obviously isn't needed for tenderness: the beans process for 75-90 minutes at 240 degrees. That cooks them very well.
I soaked three pounds of cranberry beans overnight, then poured off the water and added the onion, garlic, and bacon, placing them straight into the jars--similar to the process suggested by The Prairie Homestead.
I had some fresh onion, but not enough for the whole batch, so I hydrated some dried minced onion, following the process previously described. Then it was just a matter of filling the jars, first with beans, then with water, to about the 1" of headspace line.
The NCHFP suggests 5 pounds of beans for 7 quarts (or 14 pints); The Prairie Homestead got more than 1 pound in each quart jar. But these recipes don't include the onion or bacon. I ended up with about 17 pints' worth of bean mix. This was somewhat unfortunate, because my All American 921 canner cannot hold that many widemouth jars (various sites indicate the capacity is 19 pints, but that is based on standard-mouth jars, which are narrower--relatively few sites break the capacity down by different jar types, but those that do suggest the max capacity with widemouths is 16 pints). In the picture, you'll see that I had one standard-mouth jar. As I kept filling and filling and filling...I realized I was going to need all the space I had and then some. Unfortunately, I could only find one empty standard-mouth jar. I mostly use widemouths, though I have a number of standard-mouth jars--they were just all full of peach and blueberry preserves. I was only able to get 15 jars into the canner, 7 below and 8 on top.
I processed them for about 80 minutes at 10 pounds. When they came out of the canner, it was obvious they'd leaked a little, but not much: the water in the bottom of the canner looked (very) slightly cloudy and the jars had some fat-slickness to them.
After they cooled down, the liquid level inside the jars did recede quite a bit--In this case, I don't think it was all leakage, because all of the jars were low and there was nowhere near that amount in the bottom of the canner. I think the fluid level dropped simply due to it being absorbed by the beans. Although some of the beans appear to be high and dry in the picture, they are still tender (and cooked to perfection).
I'll probably still mostly cook beans for immediate use going forward, occasionally freezing one or two meals' worth. However, canning does expand the opportunity to use them. Cooking a batch of beans is a big endeavor, and I don't always have the time when I would otherwise eat some. Now I have them if I want them. One pint is about the right quantity for one meal.
Another alternative is to can them. Now that I'm using my pressure canner, that is an option. Canning beans offers no advantage over storing dry with the exception that they are ready to eat without further preparation. Canned beans certainly won't last longer than dry beans in terms of storage life (the latter are good for 30 years, if "dislike slightly" is good enough).

I decided to give my normal recipe a try. The amount of bacon per jar would be comparable to that suggested by the NCHFP site, although my precise recipe isn't listed--the one featuring the bacon includes tomato or molasses, which is not the flavor I was going for at all (I cut up a pound of bacon for the batch, which worked out to about one ounce per jar--somewhat more than the 3/4 inch cube in the NCHFP recipe).
The NCHFP site recommends an overnight or quick soak, followed by 30 minutes' worth of boiling before putting in the jars. The extra boiling might be justified if it helps the beans absorb more water so that they are fully hydrated. But that level of cooking obviously isn't needed for tenderness: the beans process for 75-90 minutes at 240 degrees. That cooks them very well.
I soaked three pounds of cranberry beans overnight, then poured off the water and added the onion, garlic, and bacon, placing them straight into the jars--similar to the process suggested by The Prairie Homestead.
I had some fresh onion, but not enough for the whole batch, so I hydrated some dried minced onion, following the process previously described. Then it was just a matter of filling the jars, first with beans, then with water, to about the 1" of headspace line.

I processed them for about 80 minutes at 10 pounds. When they came out of the canner, it was obvious they'd leaked a little, but not much: the water in the bottom of the canner looked (very) slightly cloudy and the jars had some fat-slickness to them.
After they cooled down, the liquid level inside the jars did recede quite a bit--In this case, I don't think it was all leakage, because all of the jars were low and there was nowhere near that amount in the bottom of the canner. I think the fluid level dropped simply due to it being absorbed by the beans. Although some of the beans appear to be high and dry in the picture, they are still tender (and cooked to perfection).
I'll probably still mostly cook beans for immediate use going forward, occasionally freezing one or two meals' worth. However, canning does expand the opportunity to use them. Cooking a batch of beans is a big endeavor, and I don't always have the time when I would otherwise eat some. Now I have them if I want them. One pint is about the right quantity for one meal.
Saturday, June 13, 2020
"Finger Tight"
Most canning tutorials say that bands should be put on "finger tight" before loading into the canner. That's somewhat vague and qualitative. As I have noted (more than once), I've historically had a problem getting the right tension. With water bath canning I eventually just started tightening them pretty tight--call it firm--and dealt with the occasional creased lids.
Even with creased lids, I have almost always gotten a decent seal, and on the exceedingly rare occasion where a jar either hasn't sealed or the seal has later failed, it hasn't been on a creased lid (this is except for the reusable lids, which I have now completely abandoned--anybody want a case of them?).
Back to what in the world finger-tight means. When I started pressure canning, I didn't want to tighten the jar lids too much, but was somewhat nonplussed at how loose I should make them. I found this video at the Lehman's site which quantifies how far to tighten the bands: Screw them on until first resistance, then about one inch further. That's what I have done for the pressure canning and it has worked (although it's apparent there is some trace leakage from the jars...the residual water in the canner has a somewhat broth-like aroma). The overall jar fluid level seems to have been okay (but one could ask how much higher it might have been if the jars had been tighter).
This PDF (also written up here) by Frances L. Reasonover of Texas A&M suggests that in a pressurized canner, leakage should be impossible--and, indirectly, indicates why the canner should be allowed to cool naturally (a point also made in the video above). if the weight is released when the contents of the jars are still too hot, the pressure inside the jars will force an overflow.
In the pressure canner I usually haven't had overflow, but I have found that the contents of my jars are still boiling after the pressure drops to zero--and this continues for some time after they are put on the counter to cool. The remaining water in the canner does have signs of a small amount of fluid leakage, and when I did a batch of pinto beans, it was apparent most jars had experienced a slight overflow during processing. However, one thing I have not (so far) seen with the pressure canner is jars overflowing as they cool--this has on occasion happened when canning acid foods, mostly fruit in syrup (even with very tight bands). That might have been because I removed them from the water too soon.
Even with creased lids, I have almost always gotten a decent seal, and on the exceedingly rare occasion where a jar either hasn't sealed or the seal has later failed, it hasn't been on a creased lid (this is except for the reusable lids, which I have now completely abandoned--anybody want a case of them?).
Back to what in the world finger-tight means. When I started pressure canning, I didn't want to tighten the jar lids too much, but was somewhat nonplussed at how loose I should make them. I found this video at the Lehman's site which quantifies how far to tighten the bands: Screw them on until first resistance, then about one inch further. That's what I have done for the pressure canning and it has worked (although it's apparent there is some trace leakage from the jars...the residual water in the canner has a somewhat broth-like aroma). The overall jar fluid level seems to have been okay (but one could ask how much higher it might have been if the jars had been tighter).
This PDF (also written up here) by Frances L. Reasonover of Texas A&M suggests that in a pressurized canner, leakage should be impossible--and, indirectly, indicates why the canner should be allowed to cool naturally (a point also made in the video above). if the weight is released when the contents of the jars are still too hot, the pressure inside the jars will force an overflow.
In the pressure canner I usually haven't had overflow, but I have found that the contents of my jars are still boiling after the pressure drops to zero--and this continues for some time after they are put on the counter to cool. The remaining water in the canner does have signs of a small amount of fluid leakage, and when I did a batch of pinto beans, it was apparent most jars had experienced a slight overflow during processing. However, one thing I have not (so far) seen with the pressure canner is jars overflowing as they cool--this has on occasion happened when canning acid foods, mostly fruit in syrup (even with very tight bands). That might have been because I removed them from the water too soon.
Sunday, June 7, 2020
Steaming Eggs
I have had some trouble hard-boiling eggs. Eggs that are relatively fresh can be hard to peel. One solution is to age them, but then they lose nutrients. My solution for years has been to hold them for a while, then boil. So far, I haven't had any go bad, but I have had a couple float. I have tossed those.
One solution that I've seen a few places, such as The Prairie Homestead, is to steam them (I used to have an electric egg cooker that did the same thing; my parents had a Jurassic one that probably dated to the 1960s). Generally the instructions for stovetop steaming call for atmospheric steaming for 20 minutes (i.e., non-pressurzied, although The Prairie Homestead has directions for pressure cooking them in the shell via Instant Pot, too).
I decided to give this a try. I got a set of steamers cheap off Amazon, then loaded the eggs into the pot. I was able to make them in the same pot with the same quantity that I usually use.
I had a hunch that they would need less than 20 minutes; Jill Winger is at over 6000 feet in elevation. However, for the first try, I steamed them for 20.
After boiling, I typically quench them with cold water, to which I have added ice. That was still doable, although ice cube placement was more tricky with the steamer.
The verdict: early indications are that it works as well as advertised. The first half dozen peeled beautifully, although the yolks were a bit over-done. I eventually determined that 10 minutes at under 1000 feet of elevation worked fine. Nine minutes is okay, too, but some of the yolks are a little doughy (which can be good or bad depending on what you like). This should've been obvious at the outset based on the data from atmospheric steam canning: steam times are the same as boiling times (a point also made by Lisa Steele recently at Fresh Eggs Daily). I had settled on about 8:45 for boiled eggs after experimentation.
Steaming does not guarantee success. Some eggs still are hard to peel (though not many, about ten percent in my limited experience so far), and I have had one egg break while steaming--though this happens with boiling, too, with about the same likelihood (so far I have had 1 of 35 or so break).
So steaming definitely seems superior to boiling in most respects. It'll be the method I use going forward.
One solution that I've seen a few places, such as The Prairie Homestead, is to steam them (I used to have an electric egg cooker that did the same thing; my parents had a Jurassic one that probably dated to the 1960s). Generally the instructions for stovetop steaming call for atmospheric steaming for 20 minutes (i.e., non-pressurzied, although The Prairie Homestead has directions for pressure cooking them in the shell via Instant Pot, too).
I decided to give this a try. I got a set of steamers cheap off Amazon, then loaded the eggs into the pot. I was able to make them in the same pot with the same quantity that I usually use.
I had a hunch that they would need less than 20 minutes; Jill Winger is at over 6000 feet in elevation. However, for the first try, I steamed them for 20.
After boiling, I typically quench them with cold water, to which I have added ice. That was still doable, although ice cube placement was more tricky with the steamer.
The verdict: early indications are that it works as well as advertised. The first half dozen peeled beautifully, although the yolks were a bit over-done. I eventually determined that 10 minutes at under 1000 feet of elevation worked fine. Nine minutes is okay, too, but some of the yolks are a little doughy (which can be good or bad depending on what you like). This should've been obvious at the outset based on the data from atmospheric steam canning: steam times are the same as boiling times (a point also made by Lisa Steele recently at Fresh Eggs Daily). I had settled on about 8:45 for boiled eggs after experimentation.
Steaming does not guarantee success. Some eggs still are hard to peel (though not many, about ten percent in my limited experience so far), and I have had one egg break while steaming--though this happens with boiling, too, with about the same likelihood (so far I have had 1 of 35 or so break).
So steaming definitely seems superior to boiling in most respects. It'll be the method I use going forward.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)