My stuffing recipe is pretty conventional. I use wheat bread rather than cornbread. I just use one pound of my basic sourdough. There probably are easier ways to make bread cubes, but I just cut up a stack of three (or maybe four) slices. There are usually about eight slices in one pound.
More than a few slices gets hard to handle, but three cuts well. I slice them both directions; the stack usually holds together through most of the process although it can start to fall apart as more cuts are made.
Then the cubes themselves need to be baked at 350 for at least 20 minutes to dry it for stuffing.
Cutting up a pound of bread takes about 20 minutes, so the whole process lasts an hour or less.
This is one of the Thanksgiving Day chores--although it can be made at any time, I usually only do stuffing once per year.
Saturday, December 21, 2019
Saturday, December 14, 2019
Thoughts on Latex/Vinyl/Nitrile Gloves
I use these gloves for a variety of purposes--cleaning, kitchen work, painting, spraying insecticide or herbicide, and other uses. I've had a variety of issues with them. Sometimes they're hard to get on, particularly with sweaty hands, and they can tear easily. I had very bad luck with some nitrile gloves I got at a big box store: many tore when I tried to put them on. It was enough to make me rule out nitrile gloves for years. I then went mostly with vinyl, because (although they aren't rated for medical use) they function well and don't have the too-tight issues that seem to be ubiquitous with latex gloves.
It may be that I was just using cheap gloves. The ones I had problems with didn't have their thickness on the box, but they were probably pretty thin. Nitrile is available in a wide variety of thicknesses: Uline sells them anywhere from 2 mil. to 12 mil. Home Depot has 8 mil gloves as well as thinner ones. In my limited experience, 6 mil. nitrile gloves are not at all prone to tearing.
Vinyl gloves are also sometimes susceptible to tearing, but in my (again) limited experience, anything 5 mil. or greater is strong enough for the uses to which I put them.
In the picture below, 5 mil. vinyl is on the left; 6 mil. nitrile is on the right.
Another factor to consider that impacts ease of putting them on is whether they're powdered inside. I've found that powdered gloves help a lot when hands are sweaty. Getting a glove on somewhat wet/tacky hands is almost impossible otherwise; if I have to attempt it, I usually dunk my hand in water to get it thoroughly wet rather than just moist. That helps. With powdered gloves, however, it's no problem. Some don't like powder residue on their hands, so avoid powdered gloves. It's not a problem for me.
More detail on the uses to which I put them:
When painting, I sometimes use them to avoid issues with splatter or the otherwise inevitable paint-on-hands syndrome I seem to suffer from whenever I take a roller or brush in hand.
For cleaning, it's a best practice to use some sort of barrier when using cleaning solutions. Reusable (e.g., Playtex) gloves are an option, but disposable ones work well, too. It's also advisable when spraying herbicides or pesticides.
When cooking, cleanup after some tasks is much easier if gloves are used, such as greasing baking dishes with lard or tallow.
So in summary, go thicker than the minimum and, if needed, look for powdered varieties.
It may be that I was just using cheap gloves. The ones I had problems with didn't have their thickness on the box, but they were probably pretty thin. Nitrile is available in a wide variety of thicknesses: Uline sells them anywhere from 2 mil. to 12 mil. Home Depot has 8 mil gloves as well as thinner ones. In my limited experience, 6 mil. nitrile gloves are not at all prone to tearing.
Vinyl gloves are also sometimes susceptible to tearing, but in my (again) limited experience, anything 5 mil. or greater is strong enough for the uses to which I put them.
In the picture below, 5 mil. vinyl is on the left; 6 mil. nitrile is on the right.
Another factor to consider that impacts ease of putting them on is whether they're powdered inside. I've found that powdered gloves help a lot when hands are sweaty. Getting a glove on somewhat wet/tacky hands is almost impossible otherwise; if I have to attempt it, I usually dunk my hand in water to get it thoroughly wet rather than just moist. That helps. With powdered gloves, however, it's no problem. Some don't like powder residue on their hands, so avoid powdered gloves. It's not a problem for me.
More detail on the uses to which I put them:
When painting, I sometimes use them to avoid issues with splatter or the otherwise inevitable paint-on-hands syndrome I seem to suffer from whenever I take a roller or brush in hand.
For cleaning, it's a best practice to use some sort of barrier when using cleaning solutions. Reusable (e.g., Playtex) gloves are an option, but disposable ones work well, too. It's also advisable when spraying herbicides or pesticides.
When cooking, cleanup after some tasks is much easier if gloves are used, such as greasing baking dishes with lard or tallow.
So in summary, go thicker than the minimum and, if needed, look for powdered varieties.
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